Pruning roses isn’t that scary . .

Read more details about pruning here: Pruning Roses

Is there a set pruning height ?

We spring prune roses for height for different reasons while still keeping a fairly consistent height throughout your patch.

If they are in the back of a border, leave it a little higher-

For the front of a border, trim a little lower-

The lower you prune, the bigger the flower and longer the stem – good for cutting and exhibiting hybrid teas in particular.

Leave them a little taller, like 4 ft and you get more blooms, but smaller and on shorter stems. My average is 3 ft.

Every 5 years I hard prune in late Winter extra hard to 1 ft to get back to the last 3 stout & hardy canes near the crown. Generally, pruning to 3 ft is sufficient for established roses. It’s a judgement call depending on the condition of each rose bush when you are right there with the plant.

What’s different about pruning a climbing rose ?

Most of the same procedures apply to climbing roses as shrubs or floribundas, but there are a few differences, due to the way that climbers grow.

Climbing roses have 2 types of canes, main and lateral.

The main canes come directly from the base and should never be pruned. If energy is spent on regrowth of the main canes, it will not flower. Climbers put their energy into growing first and flowering second.

The lateral canes are the ones that produce the flowers and pruning them will encourage blooming.

Lateral canes can be pruned anytime of the year to keep the climber in shape.

There’s no need to fuss about pruning stems toward the outward-facing buds, as shaping a climbing rose this way is unnecessary.

And you can make a trellis out of a lot of scrap materials, like the one below made by a clever blogger out of pallets painted to integrate with the gate.

More detailed information: Pruning New Climbing Roses.

How do I prune ‘Knock Out’ Roses ?

Pruning rules for Knock Outs are similar to climbing roses, but . . .

they are generally ready for their first pruning in their second or third season, after reaching a mature height of 3-4 feet. The timing of pruning is the same as other roses, in late winter or early spring when buds start to form. Knock Outs bloom on new growth, so old, dead, or broken canes should be the first to go, cutting them back to the base.

Overall, Knock Outs can be taken back by about 1/3 of their height, keeping in mind the overall finished shape. Knock Outs tend to grow in phases (bloom – rest – bloom). If a mid-season trim is in order, it is best done following a blooming period while in the resting phase.

Deadheading will also help stimulate new bloom clusters and overall growth. Knock Outs tend to produce a lot of rose hips that inhibit flowering (triggering dormancy), so trimming these off will keep your Knock Out blooming.

More details are in the Deadheading Roses Post.

What is an ‘Espalier rose’ ?

Espalier is not a type of a rose, but more an architectural term for the support structure that is built behind the climbing rose to allow it to grow up and spread out beyond what a shrub or grandiflora rose typically would.

Pruning these may be as much about re-tying it as cutting back its stems.

From the main trunk of the plant, prune branches that don’t conform to the desired pattern. The best time to do this is in late winter during the dormant season because pruning will stimulate new growth when the weather allows. Avoid pruning later, when the rose is setting buds, like any other rose.

Below is an image of a formidable 2 story house climber facing the street.

There are many versions of espalier, from the wall climbing type to the monks garden patterns. Most are like this apple tree attached flat against a brick wall. The laterals are slowly spread out so the small verticals are the blooms.

It just requires some patience and understanding that the process takes 3 years to look like something special. But when it’s done right – wow.

The above picture is one using an apple tree, but the same technique works with your climbing rose.

Below is an example of 5 bushes trimmed severely to form a criss-cross grid pattern on a wall. This is reminiscent of a monk’s kitchen garden of the Middle Ages. They trained their fruit trees this much to save space and use their many high walls. Often the cut shoots would be quickly stuck in the ground to propagate more fruit trees. Nothing was wasted.

Attach the desired branches to the support. Continue pruning to form the desired pattern and to stimulate additional growth.

Tip: Pruning horizontal branches encourages vertical growth; conversely, pruning vertical branches stimulates horizontal growth. Either way, the new growth is looking for the shortest path to the sun.

For more detailed information, see: Pruning New Climbing Roses.

Updated May 18, 2020. More will be added as I work through my old journals.

Sources: Wikipedia, Reluctant Entertainer, Home Depot, HGTV